jm: Smoky Mountain Adventures

● Big Creek Loop

●Mount Sterling Loop

● Kayaking Fontana Lake

●Deep Creek Backpack Fishing Trip

● Old Settlers Trail

● Lakeshore Trail

●Clingmans Dome/Little River

●Forney Ridge/Forney Creek Loop

Midsummer is a great time to escape into the depths of the Smoky Mountains beneath that deep canopy of green along a crystal-clear creek, where the temperatures stay cool even on the hottest days. To that end Johnny and friend Bryan Delay left the busy Deep Creek campground after a thunderstorm, then traveled through a misty dripping forest 3 miles to Bumgardner Branch, campsite # 60. Despite the rain, the pair got a fire going and enjoyed the evening, which stay dry after the thunderstorm.

Johnny editing the Backcountry Fishing manuscript while at Baumgardner Branch campsite

Next morning, Bryan had to head back home while Johnny stayed at Bumgardner Branch. He brought a working copy of his forthcoming book entitled Backcountry Fishing. Not only did he work on the edit of the book, he actually went fishing with the book in mind, taking notes. His office really is in the wilderness, as his business card states. Deep Creek did not disappoint as he enjoyed two fishing sessions that day. Though it thundered in the area, rain never fell on Bumgardner Branch. The second night at this campsite wasn't as cool as the first, however the weather was great for sleeping.

An early start and a fast 3 miles brought Johnny to McCracken Branch, campsite #59. Heavy storms were predicted for that day, therefore Johnny set up the tarp and gathered plenty of wood to put under it before embarking on a fishing venture. He spent most of the day in the water, casting for brown and rainbow trout in Deep Creek. The beauty of this Smoky Mountain stream must be seen to be believed and can even overshadow the fishing. That afternoon, friend John Cox showed up and they appreciated the dry evening, cooking out fresh trout as an appetizer, then smoked sausages over the fire for dinner, along with some succotash. The rains never came.

It was but a half mile to the next campsite upstream, Nick's Nest Branch, #58. Good thing they got there early, because after setting up their shelters, gathering wood and starting a fire a serious rainstorm ensued. Somehow they kept the fire going, but as soon as the rain let up the two of them struck out for Deep Creek, knowing that the trout sometimes turn on after a storm. And turn on they did -- Johnny enjoyed a stellar afternoon, catching many aggressive fish. They limited out, and that evening had fresh trout rolled in corn batter, along with mashed potatoes for dinner.

After four nights in the woods, the pair backtracked down Deep Creek back to civilization, another Smoky Mountain adventure under their belts.

Long time backpacking buddy John Cox joined Johnny on this trip that started 6,400 feet high on the shoulder of Clingman's Dome, the highest point in Tennessee.

The pair left the dome on a gorgeous clear day and headed down Forney Ridge, stopping at Andrews Bald, a scenic meadow 5,800 feet high, where views opened to Fontana Lake and the mountains beyond.

From here, the two continued down Forney Ridge to the Springhouse Branch Trail at Board Camp Gap. They wound downward a total of nearly 10 miles before arriving at CCC backcountry campsite, elevation 2,160, making for a drop of over 4,000 feet. Johnny was using his new Lafuma backpack, which fit like a glove and its gel padded shoulder straps really helped on the descent.

They enjoyed solitude at CCC, after swimming in the stream. A big moon rose but they slept great.

Next morning, the pair loaded up and made the short trek to Jonas Creek campsite. Though a mere mile distant, they changed sites since John Cox is trying to stay at all the backcountry sites in the park. Johnny has already stayed at all the sites in the park. This day was devoted to trout fishing. Both caught many trout, all rainbow.

After another evening of solitude, they headed up Forney Creek, following an old railroad grade to Steeltrap backcountry campsite, 4000 feet high. Even at this elevation, streams provided more great fishing opportunities. There, in the shadow of Clingmans Dome, the pair fished for brook trout, catching many small ones, and releasing them, before an afternoon storm set in.

The campsite felt more "Smokies-like" after the rain, but they got a fire going and cooked out brats for dinner, recounting their trip, then hit the hay under their tarps, readying for the final climb back to Clingmans Dome under the dense canopy of green that is the Smoky Mountains in summertime.

This is Johnny's hiking guidebook for the Smoky Mountains, where he has spent over 600 nights backpacking

It was early May when Johnny accompanied brothers Scott and Kevin Davis on a trip high in the Smokies. The threesome left Clingmans Dome on a crystal clear day, when it seemed you could see forever. They followed the Appalachian Trail southbound to the Goshen Prong Trail, taking in the many views along the way.

The air warmed a bit as they aimed for the lowland of the Little River. It was a long, pounding way down to the Little River and Camp Rock campsite, #23. The air was cool down here under the budding yellow birch trees that form a canopy over the campsite. It wasn't long before they went fishing. Johnny went up Fish Camp Prong, which is one of the Smokies most beautiful streams. A few native brook trout and the non native rainbow trout were the catches of the day.

Next day, they headed down Goshen Prong Trail to Little River Trail, then turned upstream to Rough Creek campsite, #24. The sun shone through the trees on this gorgeous spring day. As they made lunch they had a visitor -- a black bear! Johnny jumped up and ran in the opposite direction of the bear to get a pot to bang, and the bear sensed retreat then followed, but Johnny stopped then the bear stopped. He then retrieved the pot to bang while yelling and hollering at the bear, who merely circled the perimeter of the campsite.

The men hurriedly wolfed down their sandwiches and made a fire to burn the food packages. Finally Johnny kept running after the bear making a racket and he finally retreated into the laurel. They celebrated the bear's departure with cheap cigars. The campers were wary of the bear all day, posting at least one man at the campsite while the others fished and explored.

That night we expected a bear raid and cooked our kielbasa with trepidation, but alas, no bear. The evening passed uneventfully and we slept under the stars, which were covered by clouds that brought a dawn rain. The precipitation hurried our departure and we were soon at my Jeep at Elkmont. I then took the brothers up to Clingmans Dome, ending our adventure.

Cable Cove boat launch was starting point for this water-based exploration of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The 60-mile loop, spread over 6 days, would allow us plenty of time to enjoy the Smokies, not only from the water, but also along the hiking trails that course from the water’s edge into the heart of the park.

Johnny was joined by real photographer Mark Carroll, his brother, Frank, Jeff and Bryan. We left Cable Cove under dark skies. Fontana Lake is broken by narrow bays that lead to quiet mountain coves, each with a clear creek spilling forth from the dark forested ridges. The coves, locally known as “hollows,” are where you are likely to find remnants of cabins, where homesteaders carved out a life in this “back of beyond” long before Great Smoky Mountains National Park was a reality and Fontana Lake was an idea in some engineer’s mind. We aimed for Double Island and backcountry campsite #78 (all Smokies campsites have a name and corresponding number), paddling over the glassy lake, creasing the still reflections of mountains all around us. The tallest ridges poked into the cloudy sky, their heights cloaked in the darkness. Fog drifted across the lake, alternately revealing and obscuring what lay before us. Low-lying, gauzy mist crawled up the hillsides, changing shape and form, before melding with clouds above. The name Smoky Mountains never seemed more appropriate.

Our loop took us east to Double Island, then on to Forney Creek. Double Island is one of 12 boat-accessible Smokies backcountry campsites on Fontana Lake. This campsite is only a few steps from the water. Other boat-accessible campsites necessitate a walk of up to a half-mile. The rain remained as we swung back west, stopping at North Shore Campsite, then made headed up Hazel Creek to Proctor Campsite, where we explored a lot.

Hard-working timber cutters and mill workers cut loose on nearby Struttin’ Street, now part of the Lakeshore Trail. The old Calhoun House, across the creek from the backcountry campsite, now serves as a part-time ranger station. The town quieted after Ritter Lumber Company left, but it wasn’t long before the park and lake were established and everyone had to leave. Old chimneys, stone walls, rusting metal tubs and china shards litter the abandoned homesites. Now, it is hard to visualize Proctor in its heyday, as the forest has recovered magnificently. Mark and I walked to see the other large remaining structure, an old brick mill where much of the timber was processed. Here, too, the brick walls were succumbing to the relentless growing green. I turned to Mark and commented, “Here in the Smokies, if it ain’t moving, something’s growin’ on it.”

We fished the lake on the way to Eagle Creek. The clear mountain water of the Eagle Creek embayment gave way to intense green mountains. In the depths of green, I could make out the Shuckstack Mountain fire tower high on a ridge to my left. I hung close to the shore checking out the floral display. Petals dropped from the rhododendrons and floated on the lake’s surface. Rounding a corner at the end of the embayment we surprised a black bear on the shoreline. It its haste to turn tail toward the deep forest, the bear slipped on the clay shoreline into the water, its legs spinning madly, before gaining purchase and dripping its way out of sight.

After making camp, I headed up Eagle Creek, with its weathered lichen covered bluffs and small islands threaded by translucent trout laden water. This stream one of the most beautiful and remote watersheds in the Smokies. The 17 fords on the upper Eagle Creek Trail keep the crowds away. This was the land of old-time miners and moonshiners. The park’s only serious mining effort took place here. Copper was the primary metal mined, along with some gold and silver. The ore was simply not worth the expense, considering the primitive means of extraction and difficult distances to market. However, remote hollows and side creeks throughout the area made moonshining much more lucrative. In his day, Quill Rose was Eagle Creek’s most renowned of maker of “corn squeezings.” Once hauled before court in Bryson City for moonshining, the judge asked Rose if he ever aged his whiskey before selling it. Quill replied, “I once aged it for a week, and I’ll be darned if it made a lick of difference.”

Nowadays, Eagle Creek is left to the plants, animals and hikers. My favorite lake-accessible hike in the Smokies, offering varied ecosystems and ending with a great visual reward, starts here. Jeff took the trek up the Lost Cove Trail along Lost Cove Creek to connect with the Appalachian Trail. Here, he headed south a short distance to Shuckstack Mountain, where one of two remaining fire towers in the Smokies offers clear views of the lake and of the spine of the Smokies rising to an apex at Clingmans Dome.

Rain was no longer a threat, but the potential enemy was cold. A front had pushed through and the lows were projected to dip into the 40s. We commiserated with some campers who had arrived by foot, as we all had flimsy summer-weight bags. The night was long. I was glad for morning so I could get moving but sad our trip was ending. All too soon we were paddling back the final 7 miles toward our put in. The sun rose over the Smokies and its light scattered across the water. The high and dark mountains provided a backdrop to the reflecting rays, and we enjoyed one last view from our Smokies Grandstand

Big Creek Loop

Johnny has been systematically re-hiking many of the trails in the Smokies. He started in the park's east end. The latest adventure was a 3 night trip, starting at Mount Sterling Gap. Johnny traversed the high country before dropping to Big Creek and Walnut Bottoms, where he stayed two nights. The second day he walked the Camel Gap Trail, after returning friend Bryan Delay joined him for the last two nights of the trip. The spring weather was favorable. They then headed up the national park deserving Gunter Fork Trail to enjoy its many water features, after fording Big Creek.

After leaving Gunter Fork, eventually joined Mount Sterling Ridge Trail and rambled through the high country to Pretty Hollow Gap, then joined the Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and dropped to Pretty Hollow campsite, #39. The day had clouded over but was warm. A minor rain fell that night. Next day they took the historic Little Cataloochee Trail and saw several homesites, including the intact Cook Cabin. They completed the loop on the Long Bunk Trail and reach Mount Sterling Gap.

Backpacking the Old Settlers Trail

Johnny and his friends Bryan Delay and Steve "Devo" Grayson hit the Old Settlers Trail on a sunny March day to see the sights along this the most historic of all hikes in the Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail generally stays in the lowlands but has significant ups and downs as it traverses terrain between Greenbrier and Cosby. So many homesites are seen that Johnny nicknamed it the "Smoky Mountain Chimney Tour."

The day warmed to above average temperatures, especially since their were no leaves on the trees. Anytime from late fall to early spring is the best time to walk the Old Settlers Trail, as the leafless conditions allow for better viewing of the Tennessee pioneer homesteads. At camp, the sky stayed clear but surprisingly the temperatures warmed during the night, but no rain came.

Next day, the three of them tackled the last 9 miles of the Old Settler Trail, seeing more homesteads, rock walls and, of course, chimneys.

They made the Maddron Bald Trail late in the afternoon, which they took back down to Johnny's car, and completed this one way hike that Johnny and Bryan agreed is one of the Smokies ten best trails.

The one and only Great Smoky Mountains National Park was the setting for this adventure. Florida artist Aaron Marabel came along with Johnny for this 4 night adventure. They decided to tackle the Lakeshore Trail, starting at Fontana Dam and hiking east to Bryson City.

The trip started dry as they wound up and down the ridges of the Lakeshore Trail. The 6 miles to Lost Cove campsite, in the Eagle Creek embayment, went quickly. A swim in Fontana Lake shed the sweat, though the temperatures were mild. And soon, Johnny was tossing a line in Lost Cove Creek for trout – the rainy summer left the creeks high and the fishing was difficult.

Next day, Johnny and Aaron took the new section of the Lakeshore Trail connecting Eagle and Hazel creeks, the day was dark as they climbed to the divide between the creeks – the Hazel Creek side of the trail used old roads and passed many neat homesites, especially near the former town of Proctor. The two of them pushed on, climbing Welch Ridge. The rains really came just after arriving at campsite #77. They hastily set up the tarp and relaxed. Later, the rain let up enough to cook dinner and take a rough trek down to the lake on an old wagon road.

Light rain fell as they broke camp and walked a wet path – 8 miles later they arrived at Chambers Creek campsite – Johnny tackled the creek but the trout were few and far between, though he did check out some old homesites upstream. Aaron brought his sketch pad and worked on a nature landscape painting.

The night was dry and after a pancake breakfast, the two pushed east to Lower Forney, campsite #74. The sun actually shone a while before an afternoon storm hit. The air temperature didn’t break 72 degrees. Aaron just couldn’t believe summer could be so pleasant!!!!

All too soon we were at the Road to Nowhere near Bryson City. We shuttled back to Aarons truck at Fontana Dam, finishing another adventure!

There was no snow on the ground as we left Big Creek Ranger Station. We headed up one of the Smokies steepest trails Baxter Creek, with its net gain of 3,500 feet. There was 6 inches of the white stuff by the time we arrived at Mount Sterling. It was near dark, so we just set up a tent and hunkered down. There was too much stuff and not enough room in the tent, and we kept losing stuff. We even smoked cigars in the tent, which was a questionable decision. It went down to 14 degrees that night.

Bryan and Johnny at Big Creek Trailhead Kevin and Johnny on Balsam Mtn Trail

Morning finally came and we left Mount Sterling, then down the Mount Sterling Trail and past the many homesites on the Long Bunk Trail to reach Little Cataloochee Trail. This is also an historic path, which we took to reach Pretty Hollow Trail and Pretty Hollow campsite. Kevin Thomas met us at the snowless camp at 9 p.m. A closed park gate had made his hike much longer than he anticipated.

Next morning, as we sat around the fire, the snow resumed, the three of us headed up the Palmer Creek Trail. The snow kept getting deeper as we headed to Laurel Gap shelter. There was 8 inches on top and still fallin'. We got a fire going. The temperature went down to 14 degrees again.

The snow was deep the next morning as we left Laurel Gap and headed to Gunter Fork Trail, where Bryan hiked his last miles in the Smokies. We took a few pictures, then headed down Gunter Fork Trail through thigh high drifts. We leveled off at Walnut Bottoms then took it the rest of the way back to the car for an 11 mile snowy adventure.