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Kentucky is the oldest state west of the Appalachian Mountains. Settled by pioneers such as Daniel Boone and Thomas Walker, the Bluegrass State is steeped in American history, from the settler’s passage at Cumberland Gap to Daniel Boone’s Fort Boonesborough to the Civil War defensive fortifications at Columbus. Pioneers traveled on rough overland trails and along rivers, used for passage through the vast forests that thrived in their interiors. These steep, rich mountains, including the Appalachians and the Cumberland Plateau, that once formed a rampart to settlement now offer preserved destinations. Farther west are “barrens,” areas in the forests that Indians kept open to attract game to hunt. The Ohio and Mississippi rivers form the state’s western border and are its respective lowest elevations.

Today tent campers can enjoy these parcels, each piece a distinct region of Kentucky. In western Kentucky, you can explore the surprisingly scenic terrain of Penyrile State Park and Forest. Or tour Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, which together form the second largest man made body of water in the world. This vast watershed encircles Land Between The Lakes. The center state has numerous lakes where you can spend day after summer day cooling off from that hot Kentucky sun. Rugged and mountainous eastern Kentucky has its high points, such as Kingdom Come State Park that offers far-reaching mountain views. The beauty of Daniel Boone National Forest covers much of the Bluegrass State. Rock bluffs overlook gorges cut by water and time. It is a land of verdant forests, sandstone arches, and wild rivers.

Book Excerpt

Headquarters

Campsite City: Park City

Beauty Rating: 4

Privacy Rating: 3

Spaciousness Rating: 5

Quiet Rating: 3

Security Rating: 5

Cleanliness Rating: 4

Address: Mammoth Cave National Park, Mammoth Cave, KY 42259

Operated by: National Park Service

Information: (270) 758-2328, www.nps.gov/maca, reservation # (800)365-2267, www.reservations.nps.gov

Open: March-November

Individual sites: 111

Each site has: Picnic table, fire ring, lantern post, some also have tent pad

Site assignment: First come, first served and by reservation

Registration: At campground entrance station

Facilities: Coin operated hot showers, flush toilets, water spigots, camp store, laundry

Parking: At campsites only

Fee: $16 per night

Elevation: 480 feet

Restrictions - Pets: On leash at all times

Restrictions - Fires: In fire rings only

Restrictions - Alcoholic beverages: At campsites only

Restrictions - Vehicles: Wheeled vehicles must be on parking pad

Restrictions - Other: Strict quiet hours between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m.

Summary Quote: This campground is in the center of the action at Mammoth Cave.

To get there: From Exit 48 on I-65, take Park City Road north then keep north as Cave City Road merges into Mammoth Cave Parkway. Stay right with Mammoth Cave Parkway and follow it to park headquarters and the headquarters campground, on your right near the camp store.

There is so much to do at Mammoth Cave National Park that any smart visitor would make tent camping part of their adventure. This way, they could experience the different experiences to be had and get to camp out at the same time! And if you are going to plant yourself at Mammoth Cave for a few days why not do it at the campground that is in the center of the action? After, the campground is called Headquarters. It is strategically located near the park visitor center, where most of the cave tours take place. And every visitor owes it to themselves to head underground and explore part of the world’s largest known cave system. And after your obligatory underground tours, take some time to see the less heralded above ground features this protected swath of the Bluegrass State has to offer.

Johnny relaxing at Headquarters Campground

The campground is large but is spread over a wide area that is more level than not. Pass the campground entrance station. The first loop on your left has campsites #1-#10. These are of special note to tent campers as they are for tent campers only. The sites have been reworked and gravel tent pads added. These are the most preferable sites. The next loop has campsites #11-#53. Typical of the camping area, these sites are well shaded and roomy. Some of the sites are pull-through, which big rigs like, but having no electricity here discourages them from taking over the campground. The next area has campsites # 54-#90. This large loop starts out level then offers some vertical variation. The campsites in the rear of the loop, such as #76, #78 and #80 are the most desirable. The final loop, with sites #92-#111, is the hilliest. This is also where the campground host stays, which enhances everyone’s stay. Plus, the campground entrance station is manned by park service employees who are there to help. Overall, the campground has that old time atmosphere of vacationers out to have a good time in a pretty setting, as it should be in national parks. The campground will fill on summer weekends, so reservations are recommended if you come during this time.

Cave tours are mandatory for visitors. The park visitor center is a short walk away. Head over there to determine the length and difficulty of the cave tour in which you wish to endeavor. Some of the more rugged tours will leave you muddy, but coin operated showers and a laundry will return you and your duds back into ship shape.

A super trail system winds its way through the above ground natural world between the campground and the nearby Green River. Grab a view along the Green River Bluffs Trail. Or see the cave entrance of Dixon Cave along the Dixon Cave Trail. See the outflow of Echo River Spring down by the Green River. Or see the Mammoth Dome Sink. These are all interesting features that demonstrate the relationship between above ground rock and water with the rock and water you see on cave tours. Springtime visitors will enjoy the added bonus of an amazing wildflower display that rivals the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There are dozens of miles of other trails away from the Headquarters area, too. I make an annual springtime visit to Mammoth Cave to hike the above ground trails throughout park and appreciate the showy bluebells, fire pink and a host of other colorful offerings of the season of rebirth. Consider taking a canoe trip on the Green River which winds its way through the protected nature of the park. You will see springs, gravel bars and wildlife. The Green isn’t bad fishing either. Call Mammoth Cave Canoe & Kayak at (877) 592-2663 for trips times and reservations. You can also take a boat ride on the Miss Green River, which plies the Green through the park. This way you can leave the steering to others. No matter what you do here at the park, throw in a tent camping experience, too. You won’t regret it.